I wasn’t really sure what to expect when I arrived in Dana Biosphere Reserve. I knew that I could go hiking, but other than that…well, y’know. I didn’t really research much, what can I say!
As expected, we began the morning in Dana with a hike down the valley. After visiting dry, desolate landscape, with appearance that didn’t change even when we were nearby civilisation, this tree-filled valley was a welcome change. Don’t get me wrong, it was still dry. There was no lush forest providing protection from the sun as I foolishly imagined when I heard the word “biosphere”. But after days of red sand and dry rocks, even just a few trees and bit of greenery got this girl excited .
Hellooooo nature!
After making it down into the depths of the valley, and then pulling ourselves back up the rocky path, we arrived home to the village with all cardiovascular organs in tact. After a rest and some lunch it was time to take a walk around the village of Dana.
This place is a strange little one.
Jordan has big things in store for Dana, but for now, it is no more than three functional buildings (one of which was the one we were staying at) and a whole lot of workmen breaking a sweat in the unseasonably warm winters sun, as they rebuild the village with nothing more powerful that a shovel.
In five years, Dana is going to be equipped to welcome tourists who want a change from the desert and typical Jordan tourist attractions.
For now, I only saw one small guesthouse (the place we were staying), but it was filled to the brim with adventure seeking travellers.
The view back to where we were staying (the green canopy and building at the top to the left is the Tower Guesthouse)
The Tower Guesthouse was made entirely out of stone, and as you moved through the building it constantly looked like the next section was an afterthought, after the last.
There were rooms off the main pathway, rooms off the terrace upstairs, and some rooms which had even had their structure constructed from a Bedouin tent. My room had an en-suite bathroom and sometimes even hot water, but according to my fellow travellers this was a luxury.
Looking down onto the bottom terrace from the top terrace at the guesthouse
After awhile we were ready to explore once again, so we went for a wander around the village. We crossed to the other side of town (the whole 5 minutes walk) and went into a building consisting of barely more than one room.
Inside we met local ladies from the nearby village, hard at work and chatting away quietly as they dried, ground and packed up thyme and sumac. Camera shy themselves, I asked if it was okay if I took some photos of their finished product. They thought I was strange, and as my request was translated to them, they tried not to make eye contact as they giggled quietly. As more tourists begin to visit Dana, they will get used to this sort of attention, I am sure!
Thyme and sumac packed and ready to go
The second building was a Visitor Centre, with a presentation (fit for primary school children) explaining the history of purpose of the reserve. I skimmed past the numbers and facts, but was curious at the board that explained how some of the locals practices had been stopped in order to help conservation of the area. It then went onto explain that this aside, the reserve has opened other kind of employment opportunities for locals.
We saw first hand more of these employment opportunities, as we moved into the following room in the Visitors Centre. Another group of local women were hard at work, welding, cutting and sorting pieces of silver. They carefully worked with thin pieces of silver as they created earrings, rings, and brooches, but at the same time they nonchalantly worked with the open flame.
Being the girl whose has decided that if all else fails, I will be a hippy on the beach (perhaps in India) and make jewellery, I was impressed.
Jewellery making…I want to be able to do that too!
We decided to take one last walk, to find a scenic spot to take an afternoon rest. As we were soaking in the atmosphere of the sleepy afternoon, a local shepherd arrived with his flock of goats and sheep. The sun is slowly set behind Jordan’s haze. Even the shepherd adhered to the relaxed pace of life around Dana Nature reserve, as he allowed his flock to graze and wander off in the wrong direction.
As the sun moved slowly behind the hills, I couldn’t help but feel that I am one of the lucky ones who has made it to Dana before the masses.
Where in the world have you found that relaxing spot you have loved?
Whispering Gums says
Michelle de Kretser has written that to be a traveller is always to arrive too late … Ie past a place’s best time. So, when I was in, say, Siena in 1980, people would say it was better in the 60s, but when people went in the 2000s they were told it was better in the 1980s. However, it sounds like with Dana you really have got there at the most interesting time!
I have a few special places .. And interestingly they are stark places eg a couple of spots in the Snowy mountains, and some desert spots in Aus and the USA. Such spots seem to strip you back and make you feel expansive but peaceful too.
Audrey says
I loved the Dana Biosphere Reserve! I only got to spend a day there, but I managed to squeeze in a bit of hiking and take a tour led by a local Bedouin who showed us around his community. My only regret is that I didn’t have more time there!
Cyra says
Ah it’s beautiful, isn’t it! I only had one night and I could have done with more time too 🙂