Seville is one of my favourite cities in Spain. I have been so many times, and I keep going back for more. I’m sure it’s addictive. If I’ve got a spare week, it’s a place I love to be.
A foreign misconception of Spain is that the most well known aspects of Spanish culture apply to the whole of Spain. They don’t. Much of this is specifically Andalucían culture, the region that covers southern Spain, and with Seville being the largest city in this region, well, it would be a shame to miss it.
From rustic tapas bars to modern tapas restaurants pushing the gastronomic edge? Check. From traditional flamenco shoes to big flashy affairs that leave your gaping mouth wide open? Check. And that’s before we even think about the monuments – the combination of Moorish wonders, medieval haunts, and fabulous Baroque architecture. There really is something for everyone.
The best part is that it is entirely possible to experience the best of Seville on a budget. There is an abundance of amazing food at a very reasonable prices, and despite being the fourth biggest city in the country, it is laid out in a way that makes it possible to get around entirely on foot. But most importantly is the sheer number of sights that are free or very affordable.
SIGHTSEEING IN SEVILLE ON A BUDGET
1 / Plaza de España
I just LOVE this building. It is not only one of my favourites in Seville, but the whole of Spain. Originally it was built for the 1929 Ibero-American Exposition, although these days if you are more likely going to see people collecting their dole cheques than any political hot shots – it’s now used as council offices. A walk around the grounds is a fantastic look into Spain, with mosaic decoration dedicated to different places in the country, lined up next to each other from A-Z.
Added bonus: surrounding park is a great place to relax in the shade on a hot summers afternoon!
2 / Plaza del Salvador
Seville was at its economic height at the beginning of the Baroque movement (early 17th century). This period was all about showing off how much money one had and stepping outside the conservative boundaries of the Renaissance period art and architecture. The result? A city filled with colourful and grand buildings. This square is a great place to come to witness the Baroque architecture that Seville is famous for. The church, Inglesia del Salvador, gives you a real feel for just how much money was in the city during this time.
I love coming to this square in the early evening, at that time when everyone is beginning to wind down the day but it’s still too early (by Spanish standards) for dinner. It’s buzzing and alive with locals of all ages.
Bilbao, a once unknown city in northern Spain built the world renowned Guggenheim Museum, and has since experienced a surge in tourism. Other cities in Spain have tried to follow suit with their own modern architectural wonders, hoping to achieve what has become known as the “Guggenheim Effect”. The Metropol Parasol, known by the locals only as Las Setas (The Mushrooms), is Seville’s answer to this phenomenon.
It’s one of those things – people either love it or hate it. Me? Well, I am somewhere in between. It doesn’t really serve any obvious purpose, but it has spruced up the area around, and now there are ever changing little bars and places to eat, bringing quite a hip vibe to what used to be an ordinary square.
I love going up the elevator to the top on a warm summers night, and looking out over the city. The monuments and landmarks are lit up in a dim orange, and the tranquility seems like an oasis so far from the reality of the hot day that has just passed.
People wonder why on earth I want to take them up there but when they get to the top they are pleasantly surprised.
It costs 1.35 euros to go up the top, though one of the girls that works in the ticket booth at the elevator collects foreign coins. If you have some coins from your country to give away she may well let you up for free, but no promises!
4 / Museum of Fine Arts
Housed in another of Seville’s early Baroque wonders, the Museo de Bellas Artes de Sevilla has been open as a museum since 1839. It features works from Sevillian artists during Seville’s ‘golden age’ (the early 17th century Baroque period), as well as mostly Spanish works spanning from the medieval period to early 20th century. This museum is an essential stop for any art lover and definitely worth the wander into a quieter neighborhood of the city.
Tuesdays you can enter for free, at other times the ticket price is 1.50 euros.
5 / Free Walking Tour
Whilst some travellers are happy to just see the sights and monuments, others like to learn more in-depth about the history of places. Pancho Tours run free walkings tours daily, and they are a great option for those who want to learn more about the history but not spend money on an expensive local guide.
Of course, you are expected to tip what you feel is suitable as the guides rely entirely on the tips they make for an income. But this means you have a passionate guide who is conducting tours of their city for the love of it. I have found that with free walking tours in general, the guides have not only given 110% but have provided me with a different and interesting perspective of a city, and Pancho Tours are no exception.
THE SIGHTS YOU ABSOLUTELY HAVE TO STRETCH THE BUDGET FOR
Every city has them. Those sights that you absolutely have to go to and worry about the budget another day. Fortunately Seville’s must sees are still very reasonable on the wallet and should leave you feeling satisfied with value for money.
1 / Royal Alcázar
If there has to be a choice between a visit Royal Alcázar or the Cathedral, for me, the Alcázar wins hands down. It is still used a Royal residence is one of the oldest Royal residences in Europe. It was originally built as Moorish palace, and is today one of the best preserved examples of Moorish architecture, complete with peaceful gardens.
When the Royal family are not around, the modern day living quarters are open to the public (mornings only). Its an extra 4.27 euros (yes, exactly) for the ticket and it’s a 20 minute audio guided tour. It’s very restricted with limited spaces, complete with security guard supervision. I was disappointed to find I couldn’t see or jump on the King’s bed, but thought that it was great and really capped off the experience in the Alcázar.
2 / Flamenco show at Casa de la Memoria
Casa de la Memoria is a cultural centre dedicated to preserving the Andalucían arts. Every night they hold a traditional small and intimate flamenco show, not be the flashy affair you get touted for on the street. This is the real deal. It’s a cheaper and more authentic alternative to the productions put on for the average tourist, and your ticket also allows you to the exhibition upstairs , which is a further look into the history of flamenco.
It’s incredibly popular, so go by early in the day and book in advance, and turn up very early to get the best seat in the house.
Hint: the best seat in the house is actually the second row.
Last but not least, what Gastronomic Nomad loves the most…
THE FOOD
Seville is one of my favourite cities for eating out and I could write all day about the places I love, but I have picked out a couple of my favourites which are both very traditional and super budget friendly.
Bodega Santa Cruz – Calle de Rodrigo Caro, 1A
Lunch hour at Bodega Santa Cruz is not for the faint hearted but is a not to miss experience in Seville, and located near the Cathedral it is the perfect post-Alcázar pit stop. Be prepared to stand and shout your order over others heads at the bar. If you get in early enough (around 13:30) you will be around for their daily offering of paella. Paella is only to be eaten at certain places, and this is one where it’s worth a try. Another great option that is a regular feature on the chalked menu is the espinacas con tres quesos. Be prepared for no English menu and a rough Sevillian attitude to boot.
Rinconcillo – Calle Gerona, 40
This is one of my favourite Sevillian haunts and is definitely worth the extra walk a little out of the centre to find. Just like paella, sangria is another thing not to try unless you are at a particular spot you know is good for it. This is one of them. When I bring people here I always have the same – a jug of sangria and the best homemade specials. Don’t miss the incredible local dish of espinicas con garbanzos (spinach and chickpeas). Its simple, local fare in an authentic setting. After all, they have been doing this since 1670 and claim to be one of the oldest (if not, the oldest) tapas bar in Seville.
Mercado Provenzal – Plaza de la Encarnación, 36
Not a good option for food, but when the hot days calls for a cool beer, you can find this low cost cevercería behind Las Setas. Cañas (half pints) are 40 cents and if that is not the perfect refresher for your Seville on a Budget Tour then I don’t know what is.
Sevi says
I think you’ve done a description very close to the reality, it shows you’ve been to Sevilla several times. Congratulations for your website! It’s very cool 😉
Cyra says
Thank you very much! Do you live in Seville? It’s a great city 🙂 I love that it’s not overwhelmingly big, but interesting and diverse at the same time!
Maria (One Tiny Leap) says
Hi Cyra,
So glad to have found your blog on the day I go to Seville – it will come in handy this weekend, that’s for sure! I visited Seville on a stop-over to Granada back in August, and just had to go back with a bit more time as I completely fell in love with it.
Cyra says
Ahh good! I am glad you found it in time 🙂 Seville is one of my favourite cities, I really love it. Have a great time!
Andrea says
Hoping to go to Seville, so will definitely be bookmarking this for reference! http://nomoneywilltravel.com/2014/12/30/24-hours-in-berlin-no-problem/
Cyra says
Glad you liked it Andrea. I also have a post about restaurants in Seville but feel free if you want to ask me a couple of questions too. I know Seville quite well. Also check out http://www.sunshineandsiestas.com as she lives in Seville and has lots of good suggestions for food and other things around the city!